Saturday, August 7, 2010

Take him to The Four Seasons


In last week's episode of Mad Men, when he learns that an important client is coming to the low-budget Christmas Party SCDP has planned, Lane Price tells Roger: "Take him to the Four Seasons. He can have three entrees." Alas that option, which might tempt any other client, is not going to work on the Lucky Strikes heir: "This man doesn't care about food!" says Roger, explaining that Lee Garner, Jr.  will be coming to the party and that it will be a real blow-out.
It's too bad. I would have liked to see Lee and Roger having three entrees at The Four Seasons. As Vincent Price wrote in his section on this iconic restaurant:
If there is one restaurant that epitomizes New York today it is The Four Seasons. Sophisticated, urbane, expensive, its stark geometry reflects that city of skyscrapers.  Nature is permitted to intrude, as it does on the city itself, in seasonal plantings that scarcely affect the austere architecture.  New Yorkers who dine at The Four Seasons know which season has arrived by the plants in the window baskets.  Who needs a calendar?
He goes on to wax rhapsodic on the food, especially the vegetables: apparently a basket full of baby vegetables would be brought to your table for you to make your selection.  Also brought to the table: a cart of hors d'oeuvres and a dessert wagon.   Above you can see the hors d'oeuvres (which seem to be heavy on the charcuterie) in front of a quiet pool of water and the backdrop of Manhattan skyscrapers.  I have no idea what the twisted red thing is rising from the cart.

As for all of his highlighted restaurants, Mr. Price provides a facsimile of their menu.  This one must be from summer 1964. (The menu changing with each of the four seasons.)

In comparison with many other menus in the book, the design of this one is beautifully understated.

You can click on the menu to bring up a larger copy, and perhaps consider what you might order for an appetizer (I'd try the Ham Mousse in Whole Peach) or salad (Julep of crabmeat in Sweet Pepperoni, anyone?), but let's zero in on those entrees.

'Jersey Poularde'  does not sound as sophisticated to my ear as it might have to the New Yorker of '64.   I believe I would have ordered the Twin Tournedos with woodland mushrooms. The Côte de boeuf, Bordelaise is the most expensive thing on the menu, even taking into account that it it for two.  Its more expensive than anything at Luchows, the Pierre, or Sardis. I imagine Lee Garner, Jr. would have had three of those, all for himself.


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